Why unconventional ingredients are suddenly everywhere

With growing demand for skincare products that deliver visible results with minimal side effects, producers are challenged to create non-irritating formulations. For years our priority was to get a high rate of cell turnover with products containing strong acids and retinoids. The downside? Over-exfoliated, inflamed, sensitized skin.

With an increasing focus on natural products and plant extracts, the focus in skincare is moving from solely combating signs of aging to overall skin health and well-being. The skin's natural barrier is enhanced in order to retain moisture, reduce inflammation and also balance its bacterial ecosystem. In particular, this trend has special relevance to individuals with Indian skin tones who are more susceptible to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and to city dwellers exposed to high levels of pollution, UV rays and heat stress.

The SKN BIOME approach is built around three core principles: use of scientifically-backed skincare routines, maintenance of the skin's natural barrier and reliance on consistency.

The 9 unconventional ingredients (and how to use them like a pro)

1. Ectoin: the “cell bodyguard” for stressed, sensitive skin.

The protective agent Ectoin was found in bacteria thriving in salt lakes. These microbes produce a protective substance which is known as an 'extremozyme'. A cream that contains ceramides is used in skincare for its hydrating properties, helping the skin barrier, and soothing the skin.

It is changing beauty to fit in with the current 'repair-first' trend. Ectoin applied topically has been shown in clinical trials to be of benefit in conditions of skin inflammation and disruption of the skin's barrier.

Best for:

• Sensitive, reactive, or over-exfoliated skin.
• Barrier damage, dryness, redness.
• Using skin creams that contain a UV blocker will not stop you getting burnt in strong sunlight.

Use after cleansing and before moisturising. It pairs well with active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and ceramides, provided that the skin is able to tolerate them.

 2. Tranexamic Acid (TXA): the modern answer to stubborn pigmentation.

Tranexamic acid is a well established medical treatment; used in skincare treatments it helps control hyperpigmentation and melasma. This can be through application to the skin or via a dermatologist-led treatment.

Of all the skincare concerns worldwide and notably in the Indian complexion, pigmentation is the primary one. The product's effects on inflammation and skin hyperpigmentation have been noted by reviewers as being multifaceted.

Best for:

• Melasma-prone skin.
• Post-acne marks (PIH).
• Uneven tone that worsens with sun/heat.

Use once each day, preferably in the evening. In addition to wearing protective clothing and staying out of the sun during its peak hours, it is advisable to use sunscreen daily. This along with protective garments is non-negotiable. Before you start any topical skincare routine, you must inform your dermatologist.

TXA is sometimes a subtle performer that produces effects which aren't as noticeable as those from a chemical peel, but are beneficial for anti-ageing and clearer skin in the long term.

3. Hypochlorous Acid (HOCl): the calm-down spray for angry skin.

When the body fights off an infection, the white blood cells produce hypochlorous acid. Hypochlorous acid is a naturally occurring substance that provides antimicrobial soothing properties. This solution can help reduce itching and also offer skin support.

Beauty's new favourite soothing ingredient is one that works well even when skin is inflamed - for example after a sweaty workout or because of a face mask. It is suitable for skin prone to rosacea.

 Best for:

• People with acne prone skin tend to experience redness and inflammation when their skin erupts into spots.
• Sensitive, redness-prone skin.

Following on from hectic days involving workout, travel and pollutants

To make the most of this product use it as a toner by spraying onto your face after cleansing, before applying a moisturiser. For best results use hypochlorous acid in moderation, avoid overloading your equipment with it.

4. Postbiotic supplements and fermented foods are beneficial for the microbiome.

They contain the compounds produced by bacteria rather than the bacteria themselves. This makes them a suitable alternative for people who have issues with gut bacteria.

Benefits of postbiotics include byproducts produced during the metabolism process of microorganisms such as cell fragments and metabolites. Lysates which have undergone fermentation are frequently used in cosmetics as part of skincare to help to strengthen the skin's barrier.

The discussion on the beauty of the microbiome is now at an advanced level. The emphasis is now on the use of more stable and easier to formulate ingredients which can help to reduce inflammation and support the skin's barrier function.

Best for:

• Barrier repair routines.
• Dehydrated, sensitized skin.
• Skin that can’t tolerate aggressive actives.

How to use: AM/PM as essence/serum steps; pair with ceramides + sunscreen. When prone to acne, opt for non-comedogenic products, alongside limiting the application of moisturisers.

When building your biome, gentle actives such as these can be used as a start, rather than harsh ones.

 

5.Copper peptides: are a key ingredient found in a number of creams, lotions and gels, marketed as anti-ageing treatments. These compounds are made up of copper atoms which are linked to three amino acids - glycine, histidine and lysine.

This peptide, GHK-Cu, is a copper containing fragment that is known to be involved in cellular processes such as skin repair and the stimulation of the extracellular matrix.

People are now looking for anti-ageing products which won't cause continuous skin irritation. Consistently used, copper peptides are used in anti-ageing skin care routines that focus on repair.

Best for:

• Early signs of aging.
• Barrier-compromised skin needing support.
• Post-procedure recovery routines (as advised).

Normally we use this product Monday, usually when you're recovering from the active product you used the night before.

6. PHA's (Polyhydroxy Acids), such as galactose or mannose, have a large molecular size which allows them to act with a gentle exfoliating effect while not disrupting the skin's barrier function.

The larger Poly Hydroxy Acids (PHAs) include gluconolactone and lactobionic acid. These are generally gentler on the skin than alpha hydroxy acids and yet still work to improve skin texture and appearance.

Beauty companies are tailoring their products to the current aim of 'looking well without looking as though you are trying too hard'. Physical exfoliants can be beneficial for sensitive skin and may maintain the skin's natural barrier.

Best for:

• Sensitive skin that can’t handle glycolic acid.
• Dullness + mild texture.
• Beginners to exfoliation.

Use for 1 to 3 nights a week according to your sensitivity. Please do not use a number of exfoliating products at one time.

7. Polyglutamic Acid (PGA): the “surface-plumper” for glassy hydration

The ingredient PGA forms a thin film on the skin's surface. This film holds moisture in the skin, giving it a more youthful appearance by making it look firmer and smoother.

It offers a cosmetic elegant method of hydrating the skin. It is beneficial to those who wish to achieve 'dewy' skin who've got dry skin but are wary of oils.

Use on damp skin prior to the application of moisturizer; day and night. The self-watering planters are really effective provided the water storage reservoir gets completely sealed off from the roots of the plant.

The claim that this is 1000 times more hydrating than water varies between sources. What really matters is how this affects your skin.

8. Bakuchiol: the “retinol-adjacent” option for sensitive users

It has a plant extract which is used as a gentler option to retinol in the treatment of signs of photoaging.

Research found that bakuchiol was comparable to retinol for the signs of photo-ageing in clinical trials with the added advantage of being better tolerated.

Best for:

• People who can’t tolerate retinoids.
• Early anti-aging + tone goals.
• People who are after results with any product, however, their skin gets irritated by its components.

9. Proceed with caution  trend ingredients: Exosomes & at-home spicule microneedling

People tend to use the internet to shop round for the products they require but you earn their trust by telling them the truth.

Cosmetic companies are exploring the use of exosomes, however research into these products is still ongoing. The problems encountered with their use include a lack of standardisation, unregulated sources and insufficient regulatory oversight. Several publications have raised issues with the safety of untested cosmetic products containing exosomes.

Products that contain microneedles, often referred to as 'microneedling in a bottle,' are not a suitable alternative to medical microneedling. These products can cause irritation to some people and may compromise the skin's natural barrier.

In essence, if your brand voice is dermatologist-trust-first, market these as "aggressive but emerging- talk to a dermatologist rather than attempting it yourself."

How to build a routine with unconventional ingredients (without ruining your skin)

Morning news.

• Gentle cleanser
• Ecto-in or the postbiotic/fermentation aid.
• Moisturizer.
• Sunscreen (SPF 50, broad-spectrum).

PM (simple + effective):

• Cleanse.
• Target step (TXA for pigmentation or PHA 1–2x/week for gentle exfoliation).
• Repair step (copper peptides / ectoin).
• Moisturizer.

Introduce one new product containing an active ingredient every 10 to 14 days. Before using any new product, patch test its active ingredient. Do not combine multiple products containing active ingredients that you are using for the first time.

FAQs

1. Are unconventional ingredients better than classic actives like retinoids?

Ans: The most that can be said for modern life is that it is very tolerable. These products primarily aim at the skin's barrier function and its quality rather than triggering a rapid skin turnover.

2. What’s the best ingredient for pigmentation in Indian skin?

Ans: There are several factors which influence pigmentation. While TXA is a key component in many treatment protocols, adequate daily sun protection and maintaining healthy skin barriers are also essential.

3. Can I use HOCl with acne treatments?

Ans: It is helpful to have a reassuring support routine in place however it is advisable to keep it as straightforward as possible and avoid combining several stimuli at the same time.